The runway shows this past fall, heralding the styles for spring/summer 2014, showcased many of the expected hallmarks of the season—cheerful colors (Chanel, Marc Jacobs), interesting or even complicated patterns (J. Mendel, Hervé Léger by Max Azria), and lively, attention-grabbing silhouettes (Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan). But, as always, there were some surprises in the spring line-up, as well.
Ralph Lauren and L’Wren Scott both showed suits, not the usual attire you’d expect for a gay spring, and metallics were a marquee textile on many catwalks, including at Lanvin and Haider Ackermann. Iridescents, cousin to the metallics, shone at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Cynthia Rowley, and Tory Burch. And even mesh made a statement at Vera Wang, Reiss, and Marc by Marc Jacobs. There were luxe-styled sweatshirts at Peter Som and Kenzo, and other athletic-inspired garments at Victoria Beckham, Gucci, and Tommy Hilfiger. Geometrics were omnipresent and made statements at Carolina Herrera and Fendi, while the biker look (short, cropped jackets and sort of tough-gal silhouettes) popped up at Thakoon, BCBG Max Azria, and Rebecca Minkoff.
The more traditional springwear was seen in the appealing, feminine “big skirts” at Tracy Reese, Christian Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Temperley London, and Tibi, and oversized trousers, à la costumes from famous 40s flicks were on view at Michael Kors, Mulberry, Derek Lam, Paul Smith, and Stella McCartney. Fabrics are always paramount in spring wardrobes and did not disappoint at Ralph Lauren, Balmain, and Derek Lam, where grids and graphics reigned. The country garden look stole the show at Burberry, Christopher Kane, and Nina Ricci, while little slip dresses made statements at Jason Wu, Max Mara, Helmut Lang, and Olivier Theyskens’ Theory. Black and white combos continue to score big, as did all-white ensembles (and white shirts were everywhere this season) along with summer’s pastels.
All in all, it’s beginning to look a lot like spring.